Whether you’re just dipping your toe into the world of watches or you’re already knee-deep in horological obsession, it can be hard to understand the different watch categories and where brands sit in the luxury hierarchy.
Some watches are daily drivers, built to last. Others are rare works of mechanical art, designed more for safes and showrooms than wrists. So how do you make sense of the tiers—from Seiko to Patek Philippe to Greubel Forsey?
This guide breaks it all down. We’ll walk through six different watch categories, explain why each brand belongs there, and help you understand which category suits your needs, budget, and lifestyle.
Brands: Bovet, F.P. Journe, Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie., Louis Moinet
Typical Price: £80,000 and up
Ultra luxury brands are the absolute peak of watchmaking. These are handcrafted masterpieces, often made in double-digit annual quantities. They feature highly complicated in-house movements, with mind-blowing finishing and mechanical artistry.
We’re talking minute repeaters, tourbillons, or unconventional time displays, all created with obsessive attention to detail. At this level, you’re not just buying a watch; you’re collecting modern mechanical art.
The watches in this bracket have the least to do with telling the time and the most to do with haute horologie. They are about pushing the envelope both technically and visually and creating something outstanding regardless of cost.
Who It’s For:
Collectors, high-net-worth individuals, and horological purists. These watches are typically centrepieces of serious collections, not daily wearers.
Brands: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Blancpain, Girard Perregeux
Typical Price: £16,000 – £240,000
These are the grand maisons – brands with centuries of heritage and some of the most celebrated complications in watchmaking. Many are still family-owned or operate with fiercely independent craftsmanship standards.
These timepieces are highly collectible, often maintaining or even growing in value. Think of the Patek Nautilus, AP Royal Oak, or Lange Zeitwerk.
This is the most difficult bracket to define without actually experiencing the difference. Suffice to say that if you compare the feel of an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to that of a Rolex Datejust, you’ll get it. It’s just a different level of special.
Who It’s For:
Experienced collectors, seasoned professionals, and those celebrating major milestones. These are watches that blend legacy, prestige, and high-end performance.
Brands: Rolex, Omega, IWC, Grand Seiko, Zenith, Breitling, Cartier, Panerai, Glashütte Original, Chopard,
Typical Price: £4,000 – £16,000
This is where prestige meets practicality. These brands are globally recognised and offer legendary models like the Rolex Submariner, Omega Speedmaster, or Cartier Tank.
Movements are reliable, often in-house, and the watches are designed for daily wear, even in professional or formal settings. Some brands like Grand Seiko even bring in artisan-level finishing at this price.
This category also includes some of the handmade boutique ‘micro-brands’ like Garrick – a distinctive British Watchmaking brand.
This is the easiest section to define because I’m sure that most watch enthusiasts could probably select the brands that belong here. This is about quality, desirability, and a ticket price beyond that which the vast majority can either afford, or would commit to a wristwatch. There’s also something here about maintaining value over time and the longevity of the brand. Membership of this category, and those above it, have to be earned over time, sometimes running into centuries.
Who It’s For:
Perfect for first-time luxury buyers, professionals, or collectors looking for iconic and versatile pieces with strong resale value.
Brands: Tudor, TAG Heuer, Longines, Oris, Nomos Glashütte, Sinn, Bell & Ross, Rado,
Typical Price: £800 – £4,000
This category delivers excellent value and craftsmanship. While not quite haute horology, many of these brands feature heritage design, solid movements, and even in-house innovation—like Tudor’s MT calibres or Nomos’ Neomatik series.
They’re great for those who appreciate design and quality but don’t need the prestige badge of a Rolex or Patek (yet).
The watches in this category are desirable, aspirational and of high quality. In order to fit into the price bracket that customers are prepared to pay however, some concessions have to be made and these lead to a slight lack of finesse.
If you compare one of these watches with one from a higher category, you might notice a subtle difference in the quality of case finishing, a slightly thicker case or maybe a dial that’s not quite as exquisite.
Who It’s For:
Young professionals, design-conscious buyers, or early-stage collectors. These are great daily wearers with strong quality-to-price ratios.
Brands: Hamilton, Tissot, Certina, Mido, Raymond Weil, Squale, Zodiac, Glycine, Stowa, Victorinox, Frederique Constant, Baume & Mercier
Typical Price: £400 – £1,500
Think of this as the gateway to mechanical watches. These brands often use trusted Swiss movements like ETA or Sellita, and offer sturdy, stylish watches that feel far more expensive than they are.
This is where the value for money kicks in. These brands all have history and have earned their spurs. They have integrity and a loyal following but you won’t expect perfect finishing, delicate workmanship or much in the way of luxury.
Who It’s For:
Perfect for new enthusiasts, graduates, or anyone looking to buy their first ‘real’ watch. Also ideal for travel, work, or casual weekend wear.
Brands: Seiko, Citizen, Casio, Swatch, Timex, Orient, Bulova, Fossil, Laco, Festina
Typical Price: Under £400
Don’t let the price fool you, there are some gems here. Seiko and Orient make affordable mechanical watches with in-house movements. Casio G-Shocks are virtually indestructible. Timex and Citizen Eco-Drive offer reliable, good-looking pieces at amazing value.
These watches won’t win awards for finishing, but they do their job exceptionally well.
You actually need a good eye and a firm grasp of what makes a ‘proper’ watch to understand this sector. It’s certainly not about the price because there are plenty of fashion brands that cost the same that don’t make it here (or into any of these lists actually).
This is all about credibility at a bargain price, and they either have it or they don’t. This final section is all about not wasting your money on a piece of rubbish that will break
Who It’s For:
Students, gift buyers, budget-conscious wearers, or anyone wanting a stylish, everyday timepiece. They’re also great “beaters” for travel or active use.
In watch collecting, the most important question isn’t “what’s the most expensive?” it’s “what’s right for you?”
Whether you want an investment piece, a mechanical marvel, or just something cool to wear to work, there’s a brand and a category that fits your style, goals, and budget. Let the stories behind each brand guide you, and most of all, buy what makes you smile when you check the time.
We hope you enjoyed our guide to different watch categories and one last peice of advice from us – make sure you buy from a reputable watch seller like us.
Shop our ‘luxury’ watch collection by brand.