We promise to invest our time and experience into understanding your needs and desires. We won’t &#8230;
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<ul>
<li>Expect you to have lots of knowledge</li>
<li>Drown you in more detail than you need</li>
<li>Try to push a sale on you</li>
</ul>
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Our aim is to make you feel relaxed and welcome, and to enjoy the Oakleigh Watches experience from start to finish.
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The oakleigh promise

It began as part of the Seiko brand but since 2017 it has become an entirely separate entity.

Is Grand Seiko part of the Seiko brand?

The Grand Seiko spring drive movement is the most technologically advanced mechanical movement in the world.

Are Grand Seiko movements good quality?

Where are Grand Seiko watches made?

The quality of a Grand Seiko watch equals that of the best Rolex watch. However, it all comes down to personal preference.

Is Grand Seiko better than Rolex?

Grand Seiko watches are a genuine good value alternative to even the best Swiss luxury brands.

Is Grand Seiko a luxury watch brand?

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Can I go swimming in a luxury watch?

“Can I go swimming in a luxury watch?”

This is a question that I am often asked by our clients. Of course what they are referring to is whether their watch is water resistant – will it leak and ruin the movement, dial and hands?

There are usually three areas that need to be considered when the water resistance of a watch is under examination;
<ul>
 	<li>the caseback</li>
 	<li>the glass</li>
 	<li>the crown</li>
</ul>
During testing, these three components are checked for condition and damage or corrosion. Next the seals fitted between the component and the case are inspected and often replaced. The watch is then pressure tested using a purpose built piece of equipment. When it passes – voila! Your watch is waterproof.

So yes, if it passes the test, you CAN go swimming in a luxury watch. But hang on, there’s another question that needs to be asked ……

<img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-8735" src="https://cms.oakleighwatches.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/Swim2.jpg" alt="" width="943" height="530" />

“SHOULD I go swimming in a luxury watch?”

All the watches that we sell here at Oakleigh Watches are superb examples of their type and are all of course very valuable.

I can’t imagine a more hostile environment for a luxury watch than a beach with its salt and sand, or a swimming pool full of chlorine, steel and ceramic tiles. And that’s before you even mention the water! So our advice would be – “yes you can swim in a luxury watch but NO, you probably shouldn’t.”

If you’re at the pool or the beach – relax, forget about the time! Or, if you’re like me and feel a bit lost without something stylish on your wrist, switch your luxury time piece for a much more practical G-Shock!

Oakleigh Watches works alongside local Rolex and Omega service agents <a href="https://www.michlmayr.com/?_ga=2.204148883.2033394945.1721402847-623201293.1721402847">Michlmayr &amp; Co.</a> All of our luxury pre-owned watches are tested to ensure they are water resistant and comply to COSC spec. Some of our more vintage stock will not be water resistant and this will be made clear in the description.

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The-Tudor-Big-Block-listing

In 1970 Tudor entered the chronograph market with a watch that was very different from its Rolex Daytona brethren – The two incarnations of the ’Monte-Carlo’ were bold, bright and colourful and occupied their own place in the Rolex family lineup, as a slightly inferior model to the Daytona.

Then in 1976 there was a shift and the ‘Big Blocks’ were born. Far from establishing a point of difference from the Rolex Daytona by continuing with the ‘fun’ slightly ‘junior’ theme, Tudor made a watch that was similar to the Daytona and in one key way, actually superior….

As well as toning down the colour palette and producing monochrome chronographs (although exotic-dialed 9000-series ‘Big Block Monte Carlos’ were made), Tudor adopted the Valjoux 7750 movement, not only adding an extra chrono sub dial but also a quick set date and an automatic movement. This automatic movement made the Big Block the first self-winding chronographs from the Rolex group – it would take Rolex themselves well over ten years to make an automatic Daytona and 25 years to make one with an in house movement.

As well as an advanced set of features, the Valjoux movement brought with it the necessity for a deeper case than its predecessors to house the self-winding mechanism and rotor, hence the nickname “Big Block”.

The first Big Blocks were the 9400’s consisting of three references that gave the option of three different bezels:
<ul class="ul1">
 	<li class="li1">9420 with an acrylic tachymeter bezel</li>
 	<li class="li1">9421 with a 12-hour calibrated rotating bezel</li>
 	<li class="li1">9430 with a steel tachymeter bezel</li>
</ul>
In the late 1980’s, the 9400 series was replaced by the 79100 series of Big Blocks and again, there were three references with three bezel types:
<ul class="ul1">
 	<li class="li1">79160 with a black plastic tachymeter bezel</li>
 	<li class="li1">79170 with a black graduated 12-hour rotating bezel;</li>
 	<li class="li1">79180 with a steel tachymeter bezel.</li>
</ul>
By the mid 1990’s Montres TUDOR S.A. was 50 years old and they started to made decisive moves to differentiate themselves from their Rolex brothers. As a consequence the direct references to Rolex were steadily disappearing from the cases, winding crowns and bracelets of Tudor watches to be replaced with own brand alternatives and the day of the Big Block was over.
An important watch and often overlooked, the Big Blocks are one to watch that’s for sure

The Tudor ‘Big Block’

Understanding Watch Model & Serial Numbers

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Rolex-16570-Polar-2010-listing

Rolex have made several versions of the Explorer II since its launch fifty years ago but here we are mainly concerned with The Rolex Explorer II 16570. We will cover other references but this blog is designed to help you understand why you really should be considering a 16570.

When I first thought of writing this blog piece in the autumn of 2020, the Rolex Explorer II 16570 was one of the most overlooked and undervalued of all modern Rolex sports watches. A few months later I realised that the correction had already begun so I thought I had better get on with the piece

The Rolex Explorer II 1655 – 1971-1984

So firstly, let’s deal with this ‘Steve McQueen’ thing. The first incarnation of the Explorer II was the 1655 and at some time after its launch in 1971, it gained the nickname ‘Steve McQueen’. As no photo has ever come to light of ‘The King of Cool’ actually wearing a 1655 (he was a 5512 man), the reason why remains a mystery.

However, here are a few things that we do know about the 1655:
<ul>
 	<li>It was launched in 1971</li>
 	<li>It was designed mainly for cavers or ‘spelunkers’, hence the massive luminous GMT hand that told you not only the hour but splits of 2 1/2 minutes too, even in the dark.</li>
 	<li>Unlike the Submariners of the time, the Explorer II had a 39mm case.</li>
 	<li>Despite having the same movement as the GMT Master, a pattern that continued until 2011, the 1655 only told the time in one time zone. The ‘GMT’ hand was fixed with the hour hand so it told the same time, just REALLY clearly.</li>
 	<li>Its other nickname is ‘Freccione’ from the Italian word ‘Freccia’ meaning ‘arrow’.</li>
 	<li>Production was discontinued in 1984</li>
 	<li>There were five different dial variations over the 13 year production run</li>
 	<li>It was a popular watch in Germany and the USA but apart from that it was thought a bit of an ugly duckling and sales were disappointing (Great news for collectors and those who have had them from new….)</li>
</ul>
The Rolex Explorer II 16550 – 1984-1989The 16550 is what the watch world refers to as a ‘transitional model’ although to be honest, I’m not sure that the description really fits the bill. While it wasn’t made for very long in Rolex terms, it was made for almost five years so that’s not really a transition.

The thing that makes the 16550 particularly interesting is the dial – for the first time the Explorer II was available with the option of either a black or white dial and while the black dials were fine, the white ones were nearly always faulty. Instead of staying a lovely bright white as Rolex intended, most of them turned a creamy colour, giving them the nickname ‘Panna’ (Cream in Italian). A LOT of these have been replaced by Rolex with lovely shiny white ones, making the remaining cream ones highly collectible and valuable.

There are also some ‘Rail Dial’ examples out there – a Rail Dial is one where the words “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” line up perfectly with an even gap through the middle – like train tracks. These are rarer still and command a higher price.

The hands were changed from the ‘unusual’ design of the 1655 to the more ‘normal’ Mercedes style and this helped to create a look that was more acceptable to the masses.

Again using the GMT Master movement, this time the 3085 from the 16760, the 16550 now had an independent GMT hand so that it was a two time zone watch. The case was made from 316L steel as was the norm in the day and this makes it slightly less bright than the later models – the cases were also made slightly fatter than the later ones to accommodate the 3085 movement.

By the end of the 1990’s Rolex had a new movement and were working with improved 904L steel so they took the opportunity to fix the dial issues and launch a new model.

The Rolex Explorer II 16570 – 1989-2011

This is where things get interesting and lead us to the purpose of the piece that I alluded to way up there in the introduction.

The Rolex Explorer II 16570 is a very similar watch to the 16550. It has a slightly slimmer case that’s made from a different type of steel and an improved movement but apart from that it’s basically the same watch but less than half the price and that’s a situation that’s unlikely to last for long.

16550s aren’t going to get any cheaper so when the price gap closes, and it will, it will happen through an increase in the price of the 16570.

So, there are four main types of 16570, all available with either a black or white dial:
<ul>
 	<li>1989 to 1998 Tritium dial – expect to pay between £9,000 and £12,000. These are the early watches and prices have already risen alot recently – there’s lots more room yet though.</li>
 	<li>1998 to 1999 Swiss only dial – expect to pay between £8,000 and £10,000. These are the rarest of all Explorer IIs and again, prices are rising sharply.</li>
 	<li>1999 to 2007 Swiss made dial with 3185 movement – expect to pay between £8,500 and £10,000. These are the bulk of 16570s as production numbers were higher in the 2000s and they were made for eight years.</li>
 	<li>2008 to 2009 Swiss made dial with 3186 movement – expect to pay between £10,000 and £12,000. These watches have the updated GMT movement and engraved rehaut and are sought after by those who like the most recent versions of things.</li>
</ul>
The Rolex Explorer II 216570 – 2011 to date.

Also available with both black and white dials like the 16550 and 16570, the 216570 is something of a fusion of old and new.

The 216570 still has the fixed bezel that Explorer IIs have always had and now they have brought back the oversized orange ‘GMT’ hand – so that’s the old. The new is that the GMT hand moves independently and the case size has been increased to 42mm in keeping with modern tastes.

This brings us to the statement made at the beginning of the piece about how the Explorer II 16570 is a classic, appreciating asset.

You see, the 1655 isn’t to everyone’s taste, it’s properly vintage and it’s priced well out of most people’s reach.

In January 2022, a nice 1655 Full Set will set you back something north of £20,000

In its original Panna form, a Full Set 16550 Rail Dial costs over £25,000 these days and even a nice Full Set Polar with a replacement dial can be £17,000 or so (admittedly, black ones are less) and prices are still rising.

Prices of the last 16570s made with the engraved rehaut and the 3186 movement have risen sharply too but the ‘standard’ 16570s, whether Tritium or Superluminova are still great value – it won’t last long though as these things have a way of correcting themselves so if you fancy one then my advice would be not to hang about….

To see the Rolex watches in our current collection <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/brand/pre-owned-rolex">click here</a> and you can see the current range of new Rolex watches <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/shop/new-in?pa_brand=170">here.</a>

The Rolex Explorer II 16570

There are a few reasons we can think of why people might be looking at luxury watch alternatives. The most obvious is budget. If you don’t have the budget for the best, what is a good entry point into the world of luxury watches?

The second most popular reason is style. Maybe you don’t want to wear the same watch as everybody else. Amongst watch enthusiasts, the GMT Master ‘Pepsi’ is quite a common watch and deservedly so. However, for those with an individual flare, something a little bit different might be more suitable.

Whether it’s budget or style, you’ll be pleased to hear that there are alternatives. What you’ll find below, are what I consider to be genuine alternatives to five of the most popular luxury watches on the market today.

Please note the prices are ‘pre-owned’ not ‘retail’prices as that’s a whole other article!

Rolex Datejust - £6,000 'v' Omega Aqua Terra - £2,000

Starting with the market leader in the gents luxury dress / daily business wear category for decades – the Rolex Datejust. The reason for this is because they are superb at what they do. A perfect size for an understated business or dress watch, the 36mm Rolex Datejust exudes good taste quality and style. And they have ‘Rolex’ written on the dial.

In the negative ledger, you can expect to pay around £6000 for a really nice one and you are likely to spot more than the odd one around on the wrists of colleagues and contacts. And maybe you don’t like that they have ‘Rolex’ written on the dial.

As an alternative, you could consider the 36mm Omega Aqua Terra. The Aqua Terra is a very high quality watch with some equally tasteful styling touches. The case and bracelet are beautifully made and with dials in white, black or blue among other colours. The whole thing quietly declares its class and style.

Compared to the Rolex Datejust, you’ll see very few around and the kicker is that the Omega Aqua Terra starts from about a third of the price. Leaving you spare money to buy more watches…

Rolex GMT Master 11 - £14,000 'v' Tudor Black Bay GMT - £3,000

Probably the most famous watch design ever, the GMT Master ‘Pepsi’ is instantly recognisable with its blue and red bezel insert. It’s the choice of champions – “The Gentleman’s sports Rolex”. Magnum PI wore one. Fidel Castro wore one. I wear one.

Once again though, you might find that they are a bit too commonplace for you and of course the price has gone through the roof. You can’t buy any kind of decent Full Set for much under £14,000 these days.

Enter the Tudor Black Bay GMT. Introduced a few years ago, this watch succeeded immediately in bringing the blue and red pilots’ watch to a different audience.

Still very popular today, you might even find a new one and shouldn’t have to pay much over £3,000 for a minter.
Ok so they’re not as refined as the Rolex but they do offer similar styling on a much more affordable budget.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak - £40,000 'v' IWC Ingenieuer - £5,000

Designed by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original AP Royal Oak quickly became a design classic, much copied and much admired. These days a nice Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ (39mm) can easily set you back £40,000. Plus, they are of course pretty much impossible to buy from ADs.

Consider as an alternative the IWC Ingenieuer, one of the lesser known models from the classic International Watch Company. Made in relatively small numbers since 1955, the Ingenieur was originally designed with a Faraday cage inside for genuine engineers.

These days its angular styling, relative rarity and sheer quality make it a great alternative to the Royal Oak from around the £5,000 mark.

Rolex Daytona - £30,000 'v' Omega Speedmaster - £5,000

When the Rolex Daytona was first made back in the mid 1960’s its most obvious rival has always been the Omega Speedmaster. Somehow however, almost immediately the Daytona began to pull ahead in the race for popularity and desirability. Even the incredible cache of being the First Watch On The Moon couldn’t help Omega to catch up.

Fast forward over a quarter of a century and the situation has escalated to proposterous levels for both vintage and new models of these close bedfellows. Let’s be honest here, there’s really no big difference in quality between the Speedmaster and the Daytona, and there never has been, and yet …..

The Daytona is impossible to buy in stores while the Speedmaster is often in the ADs window.
<ul>
 	<li>The Daytona retails around £10,000 while the Speedmaster is around £6,500</li>
 	<li>Pre-Owned a current model Daytona sells for up to £30,000 while a Speedmaster sells for around £5,000</li>
 	<li>An early 1970’s (non Paul Newman) Daytona will cost around £60,000 while a similar Speedmaster can be had for less than £10,000</li>
</ul>
This situation is beginning to correct itself with Speedmaster prices steadily on the rise but there’s still a LONG way to go. This makes the Speedmaster an excellent luxury watch alternative to the much hyped and high cost Daytona.

Patek Phillipe Calatrava - £25,000 'v' Jaeger LeCoultre Master £7,000 - £10,000

Patek Phillipe is one of the best known and most coveted horological brands ever. The company’s classic strap line :

“You never really own a Patek Phillipe, you simply look after it for the next generation”

has been around since 1996 and sums up the brand perfectly. A Patek Phillipe really IS far more than just a watch.

All of this brings with it a high price, low deprecation rates and long waiting lists. Consequently, they’re very hard to get new and can be very pricey to buy pre-owned.

I’ll be honest, there can also be a bit of ‘them and us’ reverse snobbery in the watch world when it comes to PP.
The owner of a Platinum Calatrava or blue dialled Nautilus can sometimes be seen as a ‘level above’.

Now if I could afford a blue 5711 on my wrist I honestly wouldn’t care what anyone else thought. I would just be looking at it all day! But not everyone is like me, so what’s your alternative ?

Enter centuries old Grande Maison, Jaeger Le Coultre and their classic lines. Probably best known for their Art Deco Reverso models, they also do a very fine line in more traditional dress watches in the Patek Phillipe style.

At between £7,000 and £10,000, a pre-owned JLC Master has all the heritage, quality and class of a Patek Phillipe Calatrava but without the price ticket or occasional baggage. Well worth a look.

In Conclusion ...

Of course a subject like this can’t really be tackled in a few paragraphs and for every one of us, the questions and considerations will be different.

However I hope that maybe this article has made you think a little. If you want to discuss any of the luxury watch alternatives that I’ve raised here, I would be delighted to hear from you.

We have two collections, the original <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/shop">Oakleigh Watches Collection</a> where you’ll find a range of high end pre-owned luxury brands and <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/shop/online-only">Alderleigh by Oakleigh Watches</a>.

Our Alderleigh collection launched last year giving us the opportunity to offer quality used watches at a more affordable level. We love the idea of helping people get their foot on the pre-owned luxury watch ladder. Plus, we get to welcome old stock back as customers <a href="https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/watch-trades">trade up</a> to the next level.

 

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5 Luxury Watch Alternatives

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Grand Seiko Heritage Collection SBGA413G

Availability

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Model

What's Included

Condition

Reference

Years

Papers

Movement Type

Movement

Diameter

Dial Colour

Case material

Bracelet/Strap

Matching Model

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This Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Shunbun is a lightly worn Full Set, bought in the UK in 2023. It is complete with everything that came from the factory and the balance of the Grand Seiko warranty. It is in superb condition.
Inspired by the beauty of the Shizukuishi region in Japan, where Grand Seiko movements are made.  This one has a superb highly polished bezel - free case and bracelet and a beautiful textured dial. The batons on the dial are so highly polished that they reflect even tiny amounts of light so there's no need for lume.
Complete with boxes, papers, polishing cloth and tags.
This is a modern re-interpretation of the celebrated 62GS from 1967. The 62GS was not only Grand Seiko’s first watch with an automatic movement, it was also the watch that first expressed the Grand Seiko Style, that still shapes all Grand Seiko designs today.
Just tested by Rolex and Omega certified watch specialists <a href="https://www.michlmayr.com/">Michlmayr &amp; Co</a>  this Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Shunbun is running within COSC spec.
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Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Shunbun

This Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Shunbun is a lightly worn Full Set, bought in the UK in 2023. It is complete with everything.

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection | 2023 | Full Set

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