5 Things to Know Before Buying a Used Rolex Datejust

The used Rolex Datejust is one of the safest, most versatile luxury watch purchases you can make. It has been in continuous production since the 1940s and remains one of Rolex’s most recognisable and wearable designs.

However, one of the biggest misconceptions is that there is “Just one Rolex Datejust.” In reality, there are countless variations – different sizes, bezels, bracelets, dials, metals, and references and understanding these differences is essential when buying a used example.

In this guide, we break down the five most important things you should know before buying a used Rolex Datejust.

1. There Is No Single ‘Rolex Datejust’ – Case Size Matters

The first thing to understand when buying a used Rolex Datejust is that there are many different case sizes.

The classic Datejust size is 36mm, and this was the standard from the 1960s through to the 1990s. Vintage Datejusts from the 60s, 70s, and 80s were all produced in this size, and it remains one of the most versatile watches Rolex has ever made.

As tastes changed, Rolex introduced other options:

• 41mm – modern proportions, noticeably larger and heavier
• 36mm – Classic proportions for the slimmer wrist
• 34mm – mid-size
• 31mm – larger ladies’ size
• 28mm / 26mm – traditional ladies’ sizes

The jump from 36mm to 41mm is significant, and the right choice depends entirely on wrist size and personal preference. A 36mm Datejust often wears larger than expected, while the 41mm suits those who prefer a more modern presence.

Always try different sizes on the wrist before deciding or if you can’t, ask for expert advice.

2. Bracelet and Bezel Configuration Changes Everything

Bracelet and bezel combinations dramatically affect how a used Rolex Datejust looks, wears, and is priced.

The two bracelet options are:

• Jubilee bracelet – dressier, more intricate, traditionally associated with the Datejust
• Oyster bracelet – sportier, simpler, and more understated

Bezel options include:

• Fluted bezel (white gold) – dressier and more expensive
• Machined Steel bezel – available on vintage Datejusts adds a more intricate design without the added cost of gold.
• Smooth bezel (steel) – cleaner, more casual, and typically more affordable

A Datejust on a Jubilee bracelet with a fluted white gold bezel feels far more formal than the same watch on an Oyster bracelet with a smooth bezel. Neither is better – they simply serve different purposes.

3. Dial Colour Has a Bigger Impact Than You Think

Dial colour plays a huge role in the personality of a used Rolex Datejust.

Historically, champagne dials were extremely popular, alongside black and white and occasionally blue. Today, blue dials are among the most sought-after, with green, slate, black, and white also remaining popular.

A sunburst blue dial gives a lighter, fresher feel, while black dials feel more serious and understated. Even with the same bezel and bracelet, dial colour can completely change how the watch wears.

4. Originality and Condition Are Crucial on Used Datejusts

Originality becomes increasingly important when buying a used or vintage Rolex Datejust.

Key things to check:

• Is the dial original, or has it been repainted or refinished?
• Are the hands and bracelet correct for the reference?
• Does the reference number match the bezel type?

For example, certain Datejust references should only ever have fluted white gold bezels. A smooth bezel on the wrong reference is a red flag.

On vintage pieces, refinished dials seriously affect value. Collector dials  such as signed retailer dials can dramatically increase desirability and price.

Condition also matters:

• Fluted gold bezels should be sharp and well-defined
• Over-polishing softens edges and reduces value
• Polishing fluted bezels requires real expertise and is easily done badly

Bracelet condition is equally important. Jubilee bracelets can stretch over time, and while some wear is normal, excessive sag should be avoided. Repairs are possible, but costly – especially on precious-metal bracelets.

5. Box, Papers, and Buying from the Right Seller

Box and papers are not essential when buying a used Rolex Datejust, but they do add value and reassurance.

Important things to know:

• Papers do not guarantee authenticity
• Watches with box and papers usually cost more but are worth more
• Some rare Datejusts are extremely difficult to find as Full Sets

In many cases, buying a watch without papers can represent excellent value, especially if rarity makes Full Sets unrealistic.

For more helpful information, read our guides – Do I Need Watch Papers? and  What do We Mean By a Full Set?

Most importantly, buy the seller before you buy the watch. A trusted dealer offers experience, authenticity guarantees, and peace of mind that simply isn’t available through private or anonymous sales.

Is a Used Rolex Datejust Worth Buying?

Absolutely. The used Rolex Datejust remains one of the best all-round luxury watches ever made. It works as:

• A daily wearer
• A dress watch
• A first Rolex
• A long-term keeper

With the right guidance and a carefully selected example, a used Datejust offers timeless design, durability, and excellent long-term appeal.

Buy a Used Rolex Datejust with Confidence at Oakleigh Watches

At Oakleigh Watches, we specialise in sourcing high-quality used Rolex Datejust watches, each carefully inspected for originality, condition, and authenticity.

Looking for a used Rolex Datejust?

• View our current used Rolex Datejust stock
• Speak to our expert team for personalised advice
• Trade in or upgrade your existing Rolex

If you would like to see examples of the watches mentioned in this blog, watch our YouTube video for more detailed visual guidance.