Rolex Submariner Date: A Collector’s Guide

Rolex Submariner Date: A Collector’s Guide to History, Design & Key References

The Rolex Submariner Date is one of the most collected and recognisable luxury dive watches in the world. Revered for its uncompromising build quality, evolutionary design, and long-term desirability, it occupies a unique position in modern watch collecting.

For seasoned collectors and first-time buyers alike, the Submariner Date represents a rare combination of heritage, usability, and investment credibility. Below, we examine its origins, defining design traits, and the most important Submariner Date references.

The History of the Rolex Submariner Date

Introduced in 1953, the Rolex Submariner was developed as a professional dive watch capable of meeting the demands of underwater exploration. It was one of the first wristwatches designed specifically for diving, with early water resistance rated to 100 metres.

The Rolex Submariner Date arrived in 1969 with the landmark reference 1680. This was the first Submariner to feature a date complication, instantly identifiable by the Cyclops magnification lens. Early examples with red “Submariner” text – known among collectors as the ‘Red Sub’ and are now highly sought after.

From this point onward, the Submariner Date became a core pillar of the Rolex sports watch collection, evolving gradually while preserving its essential design language.

Submariner Date Design: Evolution Without Reinvention

Collectors value the Submariner Date for its consistency. Rolex has refined the watch incrementally, ensuring each generation improves technically while remaining visually familiar.

Signature design elements include:

• 40–41mm Oystersteel case – offering exceptional durability and corrosion resistance

• Unidirectional rotating bezel – for precise dive timing

• High-contrast dial with Mercedes hands – for maximum legibility

• Luminous materials on the Dial and Hands – for long-lasting low-light visibility

• Oyster bracelet with Diver’s Extension – allowing on-the-fly adjustment for use with a wetsuit

This functional purity is central to the Submariner Date’s appeal. It remains a true tool watch that also performs effortlessly as a daily luxury timepiece.

Key Rolex Submariner Date References for Collectors

The Submariner Date family spans multiple generations, each with distinct collector interest.

Vintage & Neo-Vintage Submariner Date – 40mm

• 1680 – The original Submariner Date; early Red Sub variants are among the most collectible Rolex sports watches
• 16800 – Early Plexiglass examples have a vintage feel and from 1983, the Sapphire crystal and white gold hour surrounds make it more modern.
• 16803 – The first ‘Bluesy’ with a dial that turns pleasantly purple
• 168000 – One of the rarest references made only in 1988 and 1989, it combines a new movement with an old style case.  Made in sych small numbers that Rolex didn’t even print papers with “168000” on them.
• 16610 – Produced from 1990 to 2010; aluminium bezel insert, classic proportions, and wide availability make it a cornerstone of modern collecting
• 16613LN and 116613LB – The classic Bimetal Submariner Date with either a black or blue dial.
• 16610LV – The classic and highly collectible ‘Kermit’

Ceramic Bezel Era  – 40mm

• 126610LN – Slimmer case profile, improved movement, and traditional black bezel
• 126610LV (‘Starbucks’) – Green bezel with black dial; a modern nod to historic green Submariners
• 126613LN and 126613LB – The 41mm Bimetal Submariner Date with either a black or blue dial.

Current Generation – 41mm

• 126610LN – Slimmer case profile, improved movement, and traditional black bezel
• 126610LV (‘Starbucks’) – Green bezel with black dial; a modern nod to historic green Submariners
• 126613LN and 126613LB – The 41mm Bimetal Submariner Date with either a black or blue dial.

Each reference offers a different balance of collectability, wearability, and long-term value.

 

Why Collectors Continue to Choose the Submariner Date

Few watches match the Submariner Date’s track record. It has remained in continuous production for over seven decades, with demand consistently exceeding supply.

Collectors value it for:

• Iconic, instantly recognisable design

• Mechanical reliability and robustness

• Strong residual and resale values

• Versatility across casual, professional, and sporting use

Whether acquired as a daily wearer or a long-term hold, the Submariner Date remains one of the safest and most satisfying choices in luxury watch collecting.

Rolex Submariner Date at Oakleigh Watches

At Oakleigh Watches, we specialise in supplying premium Rolex Submariner Date models, from vintage and neo-vintage references to current production pieces. Every watch is carefully vetted for authenticity, originality, and condition.

Whether you are building a focused Rolex sports collection or acquiring your first Submariner Date, our team offers expert guidance and discreet, professional service.

View our current Rolex Submariner Date selection or contact us for personalised collector advice.